This year, we’ve thought about moving to New Zealand, to Bali, then to Japan. Then we thought about sailing around the world. Then 2020 –and its Covid19– happened. Along with the opportunity to spend more time in our beautiful country. After a gorgeous stay in Provence, we’ve headed to the deeeep countryside -far from everything and everyone.
Aveyron is a wide department situated in Southern France -sometimes nicknamed as the end of the world. For a good reason : it’s made of extraordinary natural parks and sites, beautiful food and quaint authentic villages -and the territory is so vast you often feel like you’re alone there. I wont’ tell you the best place to see nor the perfect road trip itinerary in Aveyron in this article, but here’s a glimpse of our journey there. Some words, some notes written along the road, some moments extracted from our stay there.
Where is the aveyron ?
It is situated in the center of a triangle between the cities of Clermont-Ferrand, Toulouse and Montpellier.
The Averyon is one of the widest departments of France. There is so much to explore it could take a month -the best way to do it would probably be in a van, to make the most of the gorgeous light on the Aubrac Plateau.
a road trip in Aveyron
a sunrise on the aubrac plateau
It’s like driving on clouds -or walking on a dream. When even the cows are still sleeping. The air is cold, the dust thick, the grass is wet with morning dew. We’re driving with no plans. Savouring the journey.
old stones and history
Villages are made of old stones and lauze. Filled with history.
I still cannot believe I had never heard about the hole of Bozouls,before.
a night in a buron
Driving on the Aubrac Plateau in the golden hour, when the sun sets in the horizon. Watching the landscapes go by, forgetting where we are and were we go. Are we lost in Mongolia, are we in Ireland -we could be anywhere. Not one is here, no one except the cows. The legendary Aubrac ones, who look like they are wearing make-up.
A buron is an old stone shepherd’s hut, lost in the midst of nature parks. Some of them are now converted into bar and restaurants.
We got there right for the (very) happy hour -people were already tipsy, music was already on. Then arrived a guy dressed in a kilt, with a bagpipe. Here started the party. Followed by a great local group singing all the classics that make everybody dance. And most important, the mountain of colt cuts, then the aligot, that unique puree filled with cheese and cream. And more cheese. And more wine. Time had stopped for the night.
10 things to do in aveyron
Eat in Le Suquet –a gastronomic restaurant with notorious chef Bras [Route de Laguiole, Laguiole]
Sleep in an authentic house of character in Les Caprices de l’Aubrac – [Le Séguis, Laguiole]
Discover the legendary aligot in a buron – Le Buron de Born is a legend ! [Marchastel]
Get surprised by the incredible rhubarb tart of Maison Auriat [1 Pl. Auguste Prat, Laguiole]
Hike in the Aubrac plateau and get lost, surrounded by giant Aubrac cows.
Visit the stunning Soulages museum [Jardin du Foirail, Avenue Victor Hugo, Rodez]
Photograph the vertiginous Viaduc de Millau
Explore the canyon of Bozouls with the mini train
Discover the Aubrac tea -it makes some fabulous ice cream
Visit the roquefort caves [2 Avenue François Galtier, Roquefort-sur-Soulzon]